Love, Loyalty & Status

A Journey Through the History of Rings

Rings have always held a special place in our hearts—and on our fingers. For over four thousand years, these small yet mighty pieces of jewellery have been symbols of status, love, loyalty, and style, weaving their way through various cultures and eras. Whether it’s a simple band or a gem-studded masterpiece, the history of rings is as rich and varied as the materials from which they’re crafted. Let’s embark on a fascinating journey through time, exploring the evolution of rings from ancient civilizations to the modern era.

 

Ancient Beginnings (3000bce)

Our journey begins in ancient Egypt around 3000 BCE, where the earliest rings were more than just accessories—they were symbols of eternal love, power, and protection. Crafted from materials like bone, wood, or stone, these rings were worn by both men and women as a testament to their beliefs and status. The Egyptians also introduced the signet ring, a powerful tool used to mark documents with a unique seal, symbolizing authenticity and authority. In a world where few could write, these rings were indispensable for rulers and officials, leaving their unmistakable mark on history—quite literally!

*Brilliant blue Scarab carved in Lapis Lazuli. (Glencairn Museum)

*Ring featuring a Pharaoh before the sign of Hator and Horus. (Louvre)

 

The Roman Influence (27bce - 476)

Fast forward to ancient Rome, where rings began to sparkle with newfound opulence. As the wealth of the Republic grew, so did the complexity of their jewellery. Rings evolved into intricate pieces made from precious metals like gold and silver, adorned with elaborate designs. The Romans were also the pioneers of the engagement ring tradition, using rings to symbolize betrothal and marriage—an enduring custom that still warms our hearts today. And let’s not forget the "vena amoris," or the vein of love, which the Romans believed ran from the fourth finger of the left hand directly to the heart. A romantic notion that has kept many a ring securely on that finger ever since!

*Roman gold ring with Carnelian Portrait Intaglio (Apollo)

 

Medieval and Renaissance Eras (c500-1500)

As we move into the Medieval and Renaissance periods, rings become even more ornate, often featuring dazzling gemstones like rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. But these rings were more than just pretty baubles—they were symbols of love, commitment, and social status. The use of signet rings continued, with intricate family crests and coats of arms etched into metal, serving as a personal signature. And then there were the infamous poison rings, with hidden compartments for holding small amounts of poison. These rings added a touch of danger to courtly life, where intrigue and secrecy were often the order of the day.

 *Late 16th century Renaissance gold ring. (Reeman Dansie)

 

The Georgian Era (1714 – 1837)

Welcome to the Georgian Era, a time when rings truly began to dazzle with intricate craftsmanship and grand designs. Reflecting the opulence of the era, Georgian rings were often crafted from precious metals like gold, paired with silver and adorned with rose-cut diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires. Enamel work was also popular, adding a splash of color and sentimentality. This era saw the rise of mourning rings with compartments for hair and acrostic rings spelling out secret messages—perfect for those with a flair for romance and mystery.

*Late Georgian Onyx ring. (R&V)

 

The Victorian Era (1837 – 1901)

Queen Victoria’s reign ushered in a new chapter in the history of rings, with trends deeply influenced by the monarch’s personal style and the sweeping societal changes of the time. The Victorian Era can be divided into three distinct periods, each with its own unique charm:

• The Romantic Period (1837 – 1860): Love was in the air, and it showed in the jewelry of the time. Rings from this period often featured sentimental designs like forget-me-not flowers, hearts, and serpents—an homage to Victoria’s deep love for Prince Albert (who famously gifted her a serpent-shaped engagement ring).
• The Grand Period (1860 – 1885): After the death of Prince Albert in 1861, a more sombre tone permeated ring designs. Mourning jewellery became prevalent, with rings incorporating black materials like jet, onyx, and black enamel. Symbolic motifs like crosses, weeping willows, and urns, alongside dark-hued gemstones, echoed the era’s grief.
• The Aesthetic Period (1885 – 1901): As the Victorian Era drew to a close, a lighter, more whimsical style emerged. Rings became more elaborate, featuring intricate patterns, detailed engravings, and an eclectic mix of gemstones. Diamonds gained popularity, especially in cluster settings, while opals, sapphires, and pearls added a touch of elegance.

*Victorian Garnet and Seed Pearl Gold ring. (R&V)

 

The Edwardian Era (1901 – 1915)

Elegance and refinement define the Edwardian Era, where rings transformed into delicate, lacy works of art almost overnight. Platinum and old European-cut diamonds took center stage, with intricate techniques like filigree and millegrain adding to the charm. The neoclassical revival brought garlands, bows, and floral motifs into vogue, making rings from this period as graceful as they were sophisticated—a true reflection of the wearer’s status and taste.

*Edwardian Diamond Daisy Gold ring. (R&V)

 

The Modern Era (1920s on)

And here we are in the 20th and 21st centuries, where ring design knows no bounds. Modern rings reflect a wide array of influences, from fashion and technology to personal style and cultural values. The iconic diamond engagement ring, popularized by De Beers’ 1947 campaign, remains a timeless symbol of love and commitment. But today, rings are crafted from a diverse range of materials, including alternative metals like titanium and tungsten, offering something for every taste and personality.

*Sputnik Gold ring by H Stern. (R&V)

 

From ancient Pharaohs to today’s trendsetters, rings have always been more than just jewellery - they’re enduring symbols of human connection, tradition, and expression. No other piece of jewellery captures the essence of love, loyalty, and status quite like a ring.

 

Happy treasure hunting lovelies,

Claire x